Squirrel fish (松鼠鱖魚) is one of the first dishes I tried after landing in China 9 years ago. It was like nothing I’d ever tasted, and to this day is the most unique fish presentation I’ve ever seen.

Most often sold as fillets and loins, cod is also available whole and headless, cold-smoked, dried or salted. Fresh cod is incredibly versatile. Skin or pin-bone fillets either before or after ...

“Fisheries ministers have allowed overfishing to continue for well over a decade and now, because of mismanagement, we are in a situation where we almost have to close down the whole cod fishery.